Founding Farmers

While we may not have been filming as soon as we arrived in Washington DC, we did hurry ourselves over to Founding Farmers, a phenomenal restaurant on Pennsylvania Avenue whose menu is made entirely of organic, sustainable and biodynamic meals. The place obviously isn't only for those on the fringe, it was packed. I ordered the maple syrup and apricot glazed line-caught salmon with swiss chard and deviled eggs as my appetizer. Steve dined on scallops with fresh oysters for his appetizer while Scott had the meatloaf (all grass-fed!) with a homemade grapefruit beverage concocted freshly each day by the bartender. Granted the meal was out of this world, but the thing that BLEW US AWAY was the fact that Adam Barr, our great farmer friend from Kentucky was seated a mere 2 tables away.  Conversation and hugs abounded. While we were in town for the National Organic Standards Board meeting, Adam sits on the Board for the National Family Farm Association. Who would think that a city of suits would attract so many people concerned about farm issues at the very same time. We were then off to the hotel to get a great night's sleep for what is sure to be an adventurous trip to DC!

Lost River Co-Op

Today we visited Andy Mahler, one of the founders of the Lost River Co-Op in Paoli, IN. While many people might imagine that rural areas loaded with family farms have an abundance of produce to share, the reality is quite opposite actually. With so much space between neighbors, farmers spending much of their time on their land and so few actual residents per square mile, there are hardly the outlets for them to share the fruits (and veggies) of their labor.

That's where Andy and a group of local produce-loving enthusiasts intervened. They began Orange County Homegrown and got the first farmer's market set up. After the success of this, they saw that there could be a consistently available supply and began the Lost River Co-Op. A Co-Op works in two ways: It serves as a neighborhood grocery store to anyone who wishes to shop there and also has a membership option in which members can get reduced pricing. At some Co-Ops, members even get a share of the cut at the end of the year. It makes perfect sense that if you are going to shop somewhere, put $90 or so dollars in and become a part owner. You get your money back very quickly in the lofty discounts.

Lost River not only provides a place for all things local to be sold - apples, pears, beef, pork, eggs, you name it - all from around the community, but has the shelves stocked with earth conscious options as well. To me, the best part of the store is the amazing deli in the back offering a very delicious, nutritious, local and organic lunch every day. They have fresh soups and sandwiches and the price is actually less that what you would be charged at other local haunts. This is a great way to feed the area healthy food but Andy notes that as word gets around about the amazing offerings in the deli, it entices new customers who might have thought Lost River was some type of hippie, granola grocery store and previously passed it by, to give it a chance. They might come for the lunch but end up picking up some groceries too.

The environment is friendly, clean and helpful. It's no wonder Lost Rive Co-Op is such a success. Just having celebrated their one year anniversary, we wish them loads of luck into the future, though we think there's no where but up for this much needed grocery store in a place with so much farmland and produce and so few outlets to find it.

Ivor at Oxmoor Farm

Not that any man would ever want to be compared to a unicorn, but this is how the film crew would describe what it was like hearing about Ivor but never seeing him. It's like the whole town has been positively effected by this man and yet, after calls and emails, we could never find him. Finally at dusk he appeared. It was worth the wait.

Granted the mysticism died down after meeting him but the awe factor increased. Ivor is the co-creator of Grasshoppers. It is a collective that nearby farmers can join that facilitates the distribution of their food not only to farmer's markets and CSA members, but also to those located in the West end where there is a huge food discrepancy. While more middle class and affluent areas have one grocery store for every 15,000, the West end has one for every 80,000. There is actually a road where there are 121 fast food restaurants on a 1.5 mile strip. With nearly 80% of the people living in the area not driving cars, fast food is often the only option. Most children eat fast food twice a day there. 

Ivor has loved farming since he grew up on a dairy farm as a boy. After attending college and learning even more about the field, he made it his life's work. Oxmoor Farm is a small little area tucked next to I-64 and behind a big golf course. I don't think most people would know it existed. The farm raises a myriad of veggies as well as turkeys. 25% of their yield goes to the CSA members, 50% to the farmer's markets and 25% to Grasshoppers. Often it's the Grasshoppers produce that is served at the Stone Soup kitchen dinners (see previous blog entry for more info).

Very well spoken and dedicated to spreading the wealth of healthy foods for all, he is not about creating a rift between the organic and conventional farmer which was a change. He feels that there is a place at the table for everyone including all types of producers. While not one to use chemicals himself, he believes that in some cases they are needed and doesn't chide farmers who do. He thinks that making a move towards sustainability doesn't mean that someone must be all or nothing, but rather a bit of this and a bit of that. 

I have heard this before that the support of local, family farms doesn't mean there should be ostrasization of bigger farms that are conventional. It is true that if we vote with our fork and support the smaller farmer that more money will go into the pockets of those doing the most good, but as Ivor and others have pointed out, a person chooses a life of farming because it is a labor of love. Support all farmers who want to generate food for us, but consumers have the true power, buying from those who raise it most consistently with their beliefs and that will shape farming's future.

We look forward to seeing Ivor again next week as he takes us down to Grasshoppers HQs where the food for the West end is divvied up. So many people are being introduced to fresh, whole food again thanks to Ivor and his vision. We have met the man and now see why so many are so impressed by him. He, like many farmers, does it because he truly cares about the food that people eat and it is evident in all he does.

Laura Riccardi and Biodynamics

Every now and then someone comes into your life through your work and it feels like they are supposed to be your friend forever. I can't quite place whether this is something unique to me with Laura Riccardi or if she is just so damn magical, positive and full of light and life that everyone gets a sense of being blessed by her presence. 

Laura started off years ago after some interest in biodynamics by working at the Josephine Porter Institute of Applied Biodynamics and it turned into her life passion. After working with them for 4 years, she was hired to be the biodynamic prep creator at Foxhollow Farm. She has also started her own company where she provides biodynamic preps to farmers and gardeners and educates them on their use. Developed by Rudolf Steiner (Father of Waldorf education as well) biodynamics are an am amazing addition to the sustainable agricultural system. I am hesitant to explain exactly how it works for fear I do it a disgrace. 

But as Laura describes, it adds natural ingredients (such as chamomile, yarrow, stinging nettle, etc) that plants and animals can use to become more open to accept all the things in the cosmos and thus become as productive as possible. She explains that by cosmos, we needn't think of mysticism, but rather all things related to the earth, the sun and the moon that we are currently comfortable talking about plants and animals needing for growth. She also adds that we must realize that a being (plant or animal) that receives just tap water to grow and thrive does so in a much less greater manner than one that receives rain water. The reason for this is that as the rain falls from the sky, it gathers all the elements of the cosmos to infuse itself greater into the life it is nourishing. 

There are many elements that exist in the air and in our atmosphere that the rain collects and biodynamic preparations, when put on the land, allow the information of the world that is collected in the rain to be soaked up by the treated plants at a much greater rate. This creates tastier produce that grows much faster and heartily. One look at the garden behind Laura in this picture will give your the proof you need as this was definitely a drought year for Kentucky. The soil is still moist, rich and retains water and the needed nutrients so much better. Just for proof that she hasn't been watering, the garden is over a mile away from the closest hose and after toting water back there when the veggies were just planted and having a horrible time doing so you can trust her that she isn't dragging the water all the way back there any more. As Laura puts it, "that just wouldn't be very sustainable." 

Even hunters that migrate back by the remote garden have said that, though they wondered what kind of strange stuff Laura had been putting on the ground, they couldn't believe how green the garden was as asked if maybe they could try some biodynamic preps. If you can get a country hunter wondering about what organics and biodynamics are all about, you must be on the right track! As for the grass-fed cows raised on the biodynamically treated grass, their meat is very tender and nutrient rich. They also love eating it and do so in massive quantities - always good for when you want big, yummy cows! Just being around her makes you wonder if everything is growing so brilliantly because of the biodynamics or if it's actually her beautiful spirit just energizing everything around her. I, like the hunters, have seen the wonder of biodynamics first hand, but must insist that Laura's ebullient and warm personality must factor in there somehow.

(The picture with the horns is Laura, Holly, Samantha and baby Sophie burying the biodynamic preps to be dug up in spring.)

Heritage Cooking Class at Woodford Reserve

Mark Williams, the leader of Slow Food Bluegrass, invited us to the most delightful event - a Slow Food cooking class at the Woodford Reserve distillery. The theme was local, sustainable and slow foods for the holidays. Mark began by letting us know that as the Executive Chef for Brown-Forman, his goal was to show how, much like wine, bourbon could be added to anything in the kitchen to make it better. He was not joking. It went into everything. The attending group seemed awfully happy with his decision. 

The lesson started off with a Bourbon Red turkey. Having ordered one of these for my Thanksgiving dinner, I was very excited to see how specially prepared this bird. It turns out that butterball turkeys are double breasted because of the way that they have been bred (granted I could also inform you that they have a hard time moving once they get over a certain age because of how overly heavy they have been bred to be, but I digress). These Bourbon reds are a heritage breed that would have been what most people would have eaten before the changing of the agricultural guard in the 1940's. Very tender and flavorful, the onslaught of the  butterball breed nearly caused these birds to go extint. As of 2001, there were only 200 pairs left. Kathy Wheeler at Star Farm made it her goal to bring them back and has she in a big way. Her birds are organically raised and free range. Granted they are most expensive than a grocery store bird but you can eat Thanksgiving with a much clearer conscience. While the average turkey lives 3 months in a cage to get to your table, the Bourbon Reds run free for 9 months. Yes, they both meet their maker in the same way, but their Bourbon's lives are spent being being turkeys roaming around. 

It turns out that because of the lack of hormones and treatment, these birds are equal parts dark to white meat and thus cook a lot faster - A LOT - like, done in 2 hours or less fast. While the bird cooked, Chef Williams continued with an amazing cream of mushroom soup (with bourbon), cranberry sauce (with bourbon) and sweet potato souffle (with, you guessed it - BOURBON!). The group sipped on Apple Pie Cocktails and took a tour around the distillery. I was just proud they could still walk in a straight line at this point (I kid).

We learned that local foods can be the main part or simply an accent of every meal. The connection people have when they all come together to cook a meal is amazing. We have witnessed it time and time again. People that never previously knew one another are drawn together by the universal love of food. As everyone filled their plates with the delectable creations, conversations amongst strangers abounded. While everyone left with new recipes and a full stomach, the most consistent thing with the local food movement also occurred, everyone left with new friends.